Saturday, May 17, 2014

Final Project

This garment shows the mix feeling of masculine and feminine. But in this piece, I want to present more about women's power. 

This is an oversized coat, because I want to present it in more artistic way. The shape of the cuffs is inspired by menswear, but enlarged the size a lot.  On top of the cuff, I laser cut on wool with my own designed pattern.  For the coat shape, I wanted the structure of masculine feeling, so I made it big and long till toes. In Order to make the structure, I choose the material of neoprene, which is thick but soft. And the grey color is a androgyny color which can be worn by both male and female. 

The coat shows more about women in nowadays, which represent the right for women. There is feminine on the coat, but there are more about hard structure, powerful and confident, to state women's social statues in 21 century by garment form. 









Final Presentation

I was very excited for the final presentation. Not only excited about my own work, but also excited to see other classmates' final work. They all amazing and creative! This semester is so worthy, I learnt a lot from my lovely awesome teacher and talented friends.

I am so pleased that I got many response sheets from classmates and the other class's students. I read all of them very carefully. What they wrote in the sheet really encouraged me a lot to face the difficulties on my fashion design way, what they said really made me feel that all efforts were so worthy.





Final Project Detail Photo and Back View

For the back
I tried to create an asymmetric form to show the unbalance feeling between feminine and masculine. The left part is a line shape and the right part is sharper with the square shape. Same as the front design---one side is in line form and the other side is sharper with a square corner.


Laser cut Part
This is my laser cut part, I laser cut on wool with my own designed pattern. I chose this pattern on this garment is that I think those cross lines makes people feel strong but not sharp as triangles, so I think it is an mix feeling of feminine and masculine, actually, it gives more masculine feeling in visual way.


Friday, May 9, 2014

Work Process

For the process of the final, I was struggling for the form of my design. I knew the coat form, but I thought a lot about the sleeves' form. I used muslin to try big sleeves,skinny sleeves, oversize sleeves. The sleeves upon shoulder and under shoulder. I will figure out  my favorite one and make it with the neoprene fabric.






Friday, May 2, 2014

Final Project 1--sketchbook&statement

For my final project, I want to make an androgyny coat. The coat shows more about women's power in nowadays, which represent the right for women. There is feminine on the coat, but there are more about hard structure, powerful and confident. To state women's social statues in 21 century by garment form. 

Here are some ideas that I sketched for my final project:

Silhouette Study Garment




What did you learn that you might apply to your final project?

When I was sewing the study garment, there were some problems for measurement. I made two garments, the first one was made by musline, but the size could not fit any dress form. And I found that musline could not give the form of hard structure. So I made the second one, which made of ironed cotton-very unique hard fabirc. For the second one, I measured the size on dress form and made the exact right size to fit the dress form. 

So for my final piece, I will measure right size by musline first and then chose the perfect material for my coat. 



Thursday, April 17, 2014

Dress Pattern


What pattern did you select and why? 
A dress pattern 

How will you alter the pattern?
I will make holes on dress patterns to show more body form. 

What materials and method of attachment will you use?

I will use muslin or ironed cotton. Maybe I will make both. Because I want to see the difference between hard and soft fabric. And I will sewing machine to connect each pattern pieces. 

How do these choices relate to your topic research?  What is the message behind your design?

My topic is about Gender--Women's Power. This why I want to use ironed cotton fabric to make the dress. I want hard structure to balance the feminine feeling of the dress. The reason I want to have holes on dress is that , if the dress made by hard fabric, it would not show the sexy body shape, it will be more about ideal garment form. So, I want the hole to show a little bit skin, and the sexy waist line to present women's body. But at the same time, it also has the structure of powerful shape. 

Cite one example of an article that you have research in seminar that has influenced your design.  Explain how the article informed your ideas.

Online article "Little black dress"

This article talks about the beauty of simpleness. In the centuries ago, layers and layers dress meant elegant and beauty. However, since Coco Chanel's amazing design--Little black dress, women were liberated from "tight" fashion generation. The simple dress can be defined as another style of beauty. Maybe a little design on the flat dress can change the whole feeling of the garment. This design concept is a big revolution of fashion industry, which affected the fashion trend a lot.
For this project, I wanted to make a very simple dress as well. Because of this article, I decided to just change a little part of a simple pattern dress. I wanted to show the sexy part of women, where I think supports to be the waist line till hip line, so I just cut a hole to show the skin of that part. Simple but sexy. This article gave me the inspiration of simpleness, which helped me to simplify my design ideas.

Saturday, April 5, 2014

"Gender" Swatch Book Collection---Inspiration/Explanation

     The concept of my patterns is about gender. In my opinion, “Gender” is not only about men and women, also represent about culture. The unfair culture, which women have to be feminine, and men have to be masculine. Also, about the changed culture nowadays , which shows the equalization between these two gender, and “neutral” was being respected in the world.
     As my concept above, my patterns collection in swatch book are more about the mix feeling of “Female” and “Male”. This feeling is showed in colors combination and pattern designs. The swatch book is required in eight designs, and each of them needs color variation. I used to care more about design and this time, I found if you just change color in the same design, you change the whole atmosphere of that piece. Because I want to show more about “Neutral”, for my color palette I choose to use contrast colors. The patterns I designed all used darker colors with lighter colors, just a little bit contrast, not the kind of contraction which make people feel “Wow!”, because I do not want people feel the unbalance in each of them, like more masculine or too girly.   The patterns can be elegant, but with a little power in it. It is also a way to express my concept about gender—be equal. For the patterns,In my opinion, I always insist that geometry is a good way to represent sex, the way to arrange lines and shapes can create magic result and different strong feelings. I used sharp(men) and rounded shapes(women) to be mixed and created a new shape to be my initial little design icon(motif), then inspired from it to create more interesting combination designs.   
     For the pages’ order in my swatch book, I arranged them from more simple patterns which show gender’s feature more obviously to the completed patterns which show more about androgyny. For the very first pages, If the shape is more about feminine, the color will be more about masculine, they are about the balance between colors and shapes. For the last few patterns, they are more about mixed feeling of both of them, in shapes and colors. I wanted to show maximum androgyny spirit in those patterns, like massive lines on top of delicacy, tender shapes, or neuter patterns in slender, exquisite lines. In those patterns, they are all about complementation of each other, also the support for each other and the balance in each other. For the last pages of garment designs, I choose runway show, vogue style magazine photographs and street snap to give my patterns more wearable possibilities in daily life.
      The reason I wanted to design like this is that, after I researched some articles sources about gender culture in recent years, I realized that women getting higher social status and gays and lesbians are being accepted. Even there are laws were came out to protect those neutral citizens. Thus, I wanted to design my “Gender” theme directed more to “Gender-in-the-middle”, which actually represents more about the society in nowadays, especially in New York. Also, because of the tons of research paper online about “neutral” life, I believe to design pattern in this area will bring out more creative ideas and new elements. I have not read so much resources about it, but while I was doing the patterns in the Illustrator software, I read articles as well to get inspirations in the same time, which I felt very helpful. There always have new information in text and photos, for example, I did not only get the knowledge like “new laws”, but also inspired the new ideas from it about making more shaper shapes to show the protection for those helpless people. I usually get inspirations from visual materials, but after reading more and more articles by “forced”, surprisingly, I have to admit, words, books, essays, articles are being more and more helpful to transform academic knowledge in abstract art ideas. 
     Design needs tons of knowledge to support and develop, like background culture, or even the information about financial world which seems no related to art. I want to end this essay in my mother’s words, which she told me millions of time “ Learning fashion design is great, but if you learning things only about clothes, fashion magazines, supermodels, those kind of things in fashion industry in your whole daily life, you will never develop to higher level.”

Androgyny Patterns Collection --- Garment Designs

Swatch Book




Favorite Patterns




 Garment Designs












Inspirated textiles




The three textiles above show the feeling of androgen by using lots of lines and soft edges shapes. I like how these textiles combine sharp and soft concept together. The reason I feel those textiles related to my topic-"Gender" is that the massive lines give the idea of masculine and the rounded shape or puzzle patterns show the feminine lady's feeling. In my opinion, I always insist that geometry is a good way to represent sex, the way to arrange lines and shapes can create magic result and different strong feelings.
For my topic, I want to show more about neutral, androgyny. Thus, the mixed ideas of each gender in one textile is great example to show neutral. 

They seems to include everything about "gender", but they also only present one idea--- "Androgen".

Thursday, March 6, 2014

Beauty Map

Beauty Map



Labels

MAN WITH DRESS SUIT


SHOWS BELLY TOP AND LACE TRUMPET SHAPE PANTS


SHOWS BELLY TIGHT VEST 


NEUTRAL DESING IN STRUCTURED COLLAR 



FEATHER CORSET ON WHTIE SHIRT



HIP SHAPED DRESS IN ROCOCO FEMININE STYLE TAILCOAT


TRADITIONAL MENSWEAR STYLE


TRADITIONAL WOMENSWEAR STYLE


EXAGGERATE SHOULDERS POWER


EVENING DRESS WITH CASUAL PANTS


WOMEN WITH SUITS


HIGH WAIST OVERALL WITH MEN’S BLACK SUIT COAT


WOMEN’S POWER 

FORMAL BLACK AND WHITH SUIT WITH GENTLEMAN STYLE POCKET MATCHES CASUAL SILK PANTS 


Each of those labels are sticked beside the photo on Beauty Map



1. Topic: I am studying What happens when traditional stereotypes of Masculine and Feminine are reversed?

2. Question: because I want to find out How women's power and androgyny have expressed  in fashion.
3. Significance: in order to help my reader understand the connection between gender and culture in fashion.


Friday, February 28, 2014

Research Theme

My Research Theme is "Gender"

I want to research more about 

"What happens if traditional stereotype Masculine and Feminine are revised?"







Jean Paul Gaultier Exhibition Tour

I really enjoyed the "The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk" exhibition. 

In the exhibition, I realized how exquisite the designer's work was. Every pieces was cared by little tiny details, there were no flaws anywhere. I could see the designer not only spent a lot of time on those dresses, but also the methods to exhibit. Like the decoration in every room, the careful choses of fabric on the wall, the lighting colors and the interior design of emotions; the singing models which were so surprising and awesome, and the way they standing to show the garments were so confident. For me, I felt every exhibit room gave me different visual feeling, which really matches the main idea of different collections.
I admire how bold Jean Paul Gaultier is. When I was walking through every collection section, I saw what others did not dare to design in that time period, even for now. Those unique combination of forms and fabric not just a revolution at that time, it's still a revolution in nowadays fashion industry.
I found different "revolutions" were divided in different section, for me I would explain sections as "Women's power","every girl can be fashionable"( in the exhibition there were few oversize models were wearing fantastic dresses) "neutral" "sexual"(sexy corsets) and "high-class world".
I like how he expresses himself in his designs, also expresses many kinds of human type in collections. For example, he designed suits for women, also evening dress with pants, perfectly showed women's power.Also, he designed lace clothes and dresses for men which satisfied some men's dream. I think, he is not only designs fashion, his designs are more about culture. He showed people's secrets and thoughts boldly in his design. 



From Jean Paul Gaultier's interview online, I found his inspirations were from his life, like the people around him, natural around hime and culture around him. I can see that from his designs, that is so obvious, because every collection seems like a story behind it, a culture behind it.  Not every collections seems all about beauty and fashion, some of them are not so pretty but the theme of that collection is very interesting. 

For me, most of my inspirations are from life also. However, I think sometimes I consider too much about beauty, and forget the original reason why I choose the theme. Really learnt a lot from Jean Paul Gaultier's exhibition.